Forced Surface - Waves on Sloping Beaches.(Dept.C)

Analytical solutions for forced long waves on a sloping beach

= ∂f ∂t2 for x > 0, in which Y (x, t) denotes an unknown variable, f (x, t) a prescribed forcing function and b a positive constant. This equation has been used to describe landslidegenerated tsunamis and also long waves induced by moving atmospheric pressure distributions. We discuss particular and general solutions. We then compare our results with numerical solutions of the same equation and...

Parametrically Forced Surface Waves

Conservation Laws for Shallow Water Waves on a Sloping Beach

Shallow water waves are governed by a pair of non-linear partial differential equations. We transfer the associated homogeneous and non-homogeneous systems, (corresponding to constant and sloping depth, respectively), to the hodograph plane where we find all the non-simple wave solutions and construct infinitely many polynomial conservation laws. We also establish correspondence between conserv...

Edge waves along a sloping beach

Standing on a gently sloping straight beach, it is a matter of observation that various waveforms propagate on the surface of the sea. Among these we find edge waves water waves that progress along the shoreline. These waves, often difficult to visualize (this has, probably, prevented the regarding of this waveform as important for a long time), are coastal trapped, i.e. their amplitude is maxi...

Surface Waves and Forced Oscillations in QHE Planar Samples

Dispersion relations and polarizations for surface waves in infinite planar samples in the QHE regime are explicitly determined in the small wavevector limit in which the dielectric tensor can be considered local. The wavelength and frequency regions of applicability of the results extends to the infrared region for typical experimental conditions. Then, standard samples with millimetric sizes ...